Tassie Trip

On this page we have collected the photos from our 3-week trip to Tasmania. We are adding still adding comments and captions, but at least the photos are here. Each thumbnail links to a web-sized image, usually about 640x480 or 720x480. When a "Hi-Res" link is offered, it will be 720x480 or higher. (In the second half of the trip, we took some shots at about 1152x768.) Plant identification provided by njh.

On the way
27 - 28 November.
	"Ziggy", our 1981 Mitsubishi Sigma station wagon, carrying far more than it was designed to. By the time we reached the start of our first hike in the Western Arthurs, there were five people in the car and gear for six in the back or on the roof.
	The five of us, around Ziggy. From left to right: Charles, Phil, Phoebe, Anthony, Laura.
	A small wallaby (pademelon?) at the Scott's Peak Dam campground. In a number of the places we camped, the wallabys had learned that humans are a reliable source of food; they begged shamelessly and persistently, apparently having also learned that humans would threaten but not actually harm them. We were also molested by currajongs (crow-like birds with yellow eyes and a trumpet-like carol), one of which almost came in our car window to eat cookies with us.
The Western Arthurs
28 November - 3 December. The Arthurs are a mountain range in the southwest of Tasmania.
	Last preparations for the hike. Phoebe, Anthony, Phil, and Duanne (who bicycled to the campground!) were planning to hike the whole Arthur ranges, about two weeks' walk. Charles and Laura planned to start with them for the first five days and then return to the car to see other parts of Tasmania.
	The Western Arthurs, seen from the trail leading in. The Arthur ranges run more or less in a line, northwest-southeast, with a broad plain on the northeastern side.
	Another view of the mountains.
	A panorama taken from the Arthur plains, near the feet of the mountains. The Arthurs are on the right side of the picture.	Hi-Res
	Charles in the Arthur Plains. We spent a good while on these plains. Laura was having difficulty with uphill hiking and travelled slowly; we separated from the rest of the group on the first evening and never caught up. On the second day of the hike we tried to reach the ridgetop via Moraine A but weren't able to finish the climb. (Oh well -- the hazards of sharing a life-support system!)	Hi-Res
	I think this is looking toward Moraine A and Mt. Hesperus, though it appears that Moraine A is obscured by a bush.	Hi-Res
	McKay's track runs through the Arthur Plains, more or less parallel to the mountains. We camped at this spot (Junction Creek) on our first night in, and again after returning from Moraine A.	Hi-Res
	Halfway up the difficult Moraine A. The view is spectacular!	Hi-Res
	On Moraine A. Laura said, "Today I feel like a hero!"
	Looks like a wet day on the ridge. We heard stories later in our travels of one group of hikers having their tent shredded around them by a hailstorm. Our friends did get some hail, although not so severe as that. The weather in the Arthurs is to be respected at all times.	Hi-Res
	More damp weather up top, but no trouble for us in the valley.	Hi-Res
	More clouds on the mountains. We could see the weather coming for us -- we'd watch a cloud roll over the peaks and ridgeline, and then watch the cloud and rain blowing toward us in plenty of time to get out the raingear.	Hi-Res
	Pretty flowers. "Most likely a melalueca (paper bark). Almost certainly myrtacea." There were all sorts of wildflowers in bloom along the track in the plains; although we learned to recognize some of them, we don't know most of their names.
	Laura bundled up against the wind, near 2 Mile Creek. The first two days around the Arthurs were mostly clear and mostly warm, but the third day was cooler, windy and sometimes rainy. Having been unable to climb Moraine A the day before, we hoped to camp at the base of Moraine K tonight and try another route to the ridge tomorrow.
	Charles in the little rainforest at 2 Mile Creek. There were little groves of forest scattered across the plains, most mixed rainforest and eucalypts.	Hi-Res
	Charles in the forest, with the light shining on him.
	None of our pictures captures the abundance of moss in the Tasmanian forests. On this particular log, there were at least five kinds of moss growing next to and among each other in patches. Likewise, we were amazed by the diversity and abundance of lichen in the forests and alpine regions.	Hi-Res
	Another try at moss. We hear that most of the moss species in Tassie are not yet characterized and classified. A lovely place to do taxonomy...	Hi-Res
	After reaching 2 Mile Creek and having a lunch break, we decided not to continue toward Moraine K and the Arthur summits this trip. Shortly after turning back, Laura's left boot suffered a catastrophic failure: the sole peeled free of the boot from the toe to the arch. We completed the days hike (about 9 km or 5.5 miles) with the boot held togther by silver tape and spare shoelaces.
	In This and the previous picture you'll notice not only the field repairs to Laura's boot but also the encrustations of the famous Tasmanian mud. In fact, the mud we walked through was not too bad: often dry, occasionally up to the boot laces, and only once or twice up to the knee.
	Laura, back at the parking lot. Within five minutes of arriving at the end of the trail, her other boot also lost its sole. (We had a salt water crossing on our last hike in Melbourne, and Laura did not wash her boots afterwards... we think this is responsible for the interesting glue failures.)
Mt Field National Park
3 - 6 December.
	Laura standing next to a moderately tall tree-fern or man-fern. This is on the walk to Russell Falls. The full 3-falls circuit hike is probably the best walk at Mt. Field, and is one of Tassie's "10 Great Short Walks".	Hi-Res
	Russell Falls, in Mt. Field National Park.	Hi-Res
	Laura at Russell Falls.	Hi-Res
	Charles at Horseshoe Falls, also in Mt. Field.	Hi-Res
	Horseshoe Falls. The whole walk was lovely -- three waterfalls and the tall eucalypt forest -- and much easier than what we'd been doing in the Arthurs. A very tall eucalypt forest. The mighty swamp gums are apparently the second tallest trees in the world, and thereby the worlds tallest flowering plants. We saw some that were 70-80 meters (250+ feet) tall.	Hi-Res
	This little wasp stopped by to visit as we were enjoying Lady Barron Falls.
	We stayed in the campground at Mt Field and at nightfall went out looking for platypus in the river below Russell Falls. We didn't see any platypus (or koalas, either), but we did see lots of pademelons (a kind of small wallaby with a short, flat snout) and a number of possums like this one. Later in the trip, we met possums who understood zippers enough to work backpacks open.
	Lake Seal, seen from the alpine plateau in Mt Field park. Laura and Charles climbed this far together; the next day, Charles returned alone to hike along the top of the Rodway Range.	Hi-Res
	The Tarn Shelf, on Charles' walk. There are more of these little and not-so-little glacial lakes around the corner.	Hi-Res
	Charles' self-portrait on the boulder fields of the Rodway Range. The boulders are remnants of an ice-shattered peak.	Hi-Res
	Alpine wildflowers on the ridge walk. Richea scorpia	Hi-Res
	More alpine wildflowers. "Could be a Tasmannia latifolia, or mountain pepper leaf (I've got one of these growing at home - you can eat the leaves)."	Hi-Res
	Snow! We didn't see any snow or ice in the air, but Charles found this patch on the Rodway Range.
	Flowers on the ridge. Laura was down at the campsite and didn't see the alpine flora in person, so Charles "picked" some for her with the digital camera. "Probably a prostanthera alpina".	Hi-Res
	View from the top of the Rodway Range.	Hi-Res
	Lizard! We saw hundreds of lizards on our hikes, but no snakes. Duanne saw a snake on the first day walking into the Arthurs; in general, only the first person in a group had a chance of seeing any little reptile before it scooted into hiding.	Hi-Res
	Charles' favorite area on the Rodway circuit hike. After descending from the boulder fields towards the main saddle leading to Mt. Field, the circuit skirts the Rodway boulders to a smaller, higher saddle along the Rodway ridge. There the boulders give way to a soft expanse of ground studded with small clear pools edged (and made) by cushion plants.	Hi-Res
	Most of the walk over the cusion plants is on duckboard, to prevent hikers from eroding away the very things they come to see.
	Looking back to the north after leaving the mossy area and preparing to descend to the Tarn Shelf.	Hi-Res
	During the descent I (Charles) could hear water running quickly underneath the boulders on which I was walking, although I never saw the stream. No doubt it fed the first tarn I saw. I had lunch here next to a small hut, and met a hiker from the Netherlands. He had just finished a work assignment in New Zealand, and had time to tour before returning home. He kindly offered me a fresh apple to augment my crackers-and-peanut-butter lunch.	Hi-Res
	I was really struck by this tree, standing alone on the edge of a tarn, with the cliff rising up behind it. Nathan says he is not quite sure which kind it is: "it may be a strawberry pine (in which case it would be in the order of 10000 years old), or one of the dwarf mountain pines(in which case it would probably only be 2-5000 years old)."	Hi-Res
Southeast: the Tasman Peninsula
5 - 7 December
	There are 3 or 4 named geological attractions to the Tasman Peninsula in the Southeast. (The main attraction is the historical site of Port Arthur. It is supposed to be very good, but we didn't feel like paying the entrance fee.) This one is Remarkable Cave. Since I am remarking on it, the name must be accurate. It is a very nice little sea cave, where the waves run through this underhill tunnel for maybe 100 meters and roll up upon this tiny beach. Were it not for the extensive laddering, one would have to rappel in to see the beach. Nevertheless, the cave is not quite what we expected from the name: we brought daypacks with headlamps! If you name it, they will come.
	Climbing back up, we can see the shoreline on the other side of Remarkable Cave. Notice how clear and blue the water is! Notice also the little drop of water on the lens. Hey kids, can you spot the water drop in all the remaining photos? (In fact, it's not obvious in most, but it was still on the lens when we got home, so it must be there somewhere.)	Hi-Res
	A good picture of Laura & Charles, except the water drop. Any image-wizards out there know how to unblur part of a photo?	Hi-Res
	An Echidna! In real life, it looks like a grumpy animated toupé. In this photo, the snout is mostly hidden. This one was spotted on top of the Devil's Cauldron, or some nearby formation.
	Waterfall Bay. We didn't walk to the waterfall, but enjoyed the view of the bay.	Hi-Res
Hobart: we stayed in Hobart from 7 - 9 December, at the Narrara Backpackers' Hostel. The Narrara changed owners and was redone 5 years ago, and is one of the nicest hostels around. The Central City Backpackers' is bigger and therefore may be of more use to lone travellers hoping to find rides, hiking partners or work, but not nearly as nice as Narrara. Narrara is also slightly cheaper. The name is either aboriginal or Arabic-Spanish: the owner was not sure. He did know that Narrara was built early in the century by European immigrants (Swiss?), spent some time as a maternity hospital around mid-century (when the hostel addition was added). Apparently the place had a bad spell for awhile, but is now run by a delightful bushwalker and attracts a very international group.
Northeast: Freycinet Peninsula
9 - 13 December
Simply amazing. Wineglass bay had been recommended by several people, and it is easy to see why. Although Tassie is known for its rugged skylines and mountain bushwalking, the northeast is where those who live on the island go for holiday. At least that's what the brochure said. Anyway, it looks like the tropical beaches of the Caribbean: clear super-blue water, white sandy beaches, and exotic plants. It's temperate, not tropical, and as we were there on the early side of summer, swimming was only comfortable if the sun was out.
	We stopped for lunch at some random beach on the way out to Freycinet National Park.	Hi-Res
	Cooks Beach. One of the best shots in the collection. Simply beautiful: look at the Hi-Res shot and you will know why we chose to spend an extra day here. We met one pair of bushwalkers when we arrived at Cook's each. Bob and Joel were stopping for lunch and water before heading out on an attempted perimeter-traverse. Bob apparently is a climbing instructor and author, and had amazing stories to tell from long experience bushwalking and climbing around the world, but especially in Tassie. We quite inconsiderately absorbed stories and encouraged more, delaying their departure by about an hour. Bob is the one who had his tent sheared off above him while in the Western Arthurs one December (that's early summer, folks). Apparently he was (on a separate trip) part of the crew re-enacting the first ascent of Federation Peak. He said they flew in one of the original climbers, now in his 70s or so, who still prussiked his way up.	Hi-Res
	Laura at Cooks beach. For the first night, we had the whole beach to ourselves! Tassie has done a wonderful thing in restricting access to these beaches by hiking (or boat) only. They would certainly not be so special if crowds could just drive up. There was zero litter on the beaches and only 1 or 2 pieces to be found (and collected) in the campsites.	Hi-Res
	Charles at Cook's beach.	Hi-Res
	While wading around later that day, I happened upon a passing ray. Although you can't tell, this photo is through knee-deep water. We don't know what kind of ray this is, but noted the rather long tail and kept a respectful distance. They swim most gracefully, but fortunately this one was also relatively calm about it. We learned to recognize ray beds: spots where the ray dug itself into the sand a bit (and stirred up darker subsurface sand) to await passing bathers, I mean fish.	Hi-Res
	A different shot of the ray.	Hi-Res
	Picture 1 in a gorgeous sunset sequence. Originally 5 shots, we've selected 3 to show the range of colors.	Hi-Res
	Sunset 2: the red begins	Hi-Res
	Sunset 3: the blue enters. Shortly thereafter the full moon made a very impressive appearance, but did not photograph well.	Hi-Res
	Laura sleeping at Wineglass Bay. After 2 nights at Cook's (the second with the company of 4 folks from Melbourne, and some others), we walked back to Hazard's beach and across the peninsula to Wineglass bay, which opens out eastward to the ocean (Cook's faces northwest towards the rest of Tasmania). You can see the beautiful 1.5 km arc of white sand, but mostly I was amused at how collapsed Laura looked while sleeping.	Hi-Res
	A scenic little fishing boat. Later in the day, it was joined by a couple other scenic little fishing boats. Then that night one turned on about 50 ultra-bright halogen lights (brighter than the sunset) and sat in the mouth of the bay while another trolled around with nets out, a third just cruised around with navigation lights on, and someone way down the beach made flashlight signals. Weird. Charles and our 4 Melbourne friends from the previous night (who had hiked in the hard way over the mountains) were on shore playing Hearts and talking while Laura caught some early Zzz's.	Hi-Res
	Another shot of the very scenic if now slighly sinister boat.	Hi-Res
	Random camp shot: the tents of Andy, Emma, Themas, and Bronwyn.
	Themas, Bronwyn, Andy, and Emma: friends we met at Cook's beach, who were also from Melbourne. Also couples, which was neat.	Hi-Res
	A panorama of Wineglass bay from the lookout shelf in the saddle of the hills: we are climbing out.	Hi-Res
The Lake St. Clair Area
13 - 16 December
	The night between leaving Wineglass Bay and starting our walk at lake St. Clair, we stayed in the backpackers' hostel at Lake St. Clair Nat'l Park. What comfort! What luxury! A welcome and cozy space to sort out gear and do laundry before hitting the trail again. In the evening, Charles came upon a group-tour cook preparing to throw out their (non-dehydrated) dinner leftovers, in the communal kitchen; instead, we got their leftovers to eat for breakfast. Yum!	Hi-Res
	A lovely view from the Overland track, looking toward (I think) Mt. Olympus.	Hi-Res
	There were three suspension bridges along this section of the track; the first two were no trouble but Laura found this third one rather narrow.
	Presumably the bridges are in fact strong enough to hold more than one skinny Twardy-style hiker, but we didn't test them.
	In the rainforest on the way to the Pine Valley Hut. The walk from lake St. Clair to the Pine Valley Hut (where we camped the next two nights) is very densely packed with beautiful places: rainforests, little fields of alpine plants, mountain views, burbling brooks....
	More open (rain)forest.
	There were a number of wildflowers in bloom during our visit. This big, bright flowering shrub is called waratah.
	More waratah. Yes, it was this red.	Hi-Res
	We really liked this plant!	Hi-Res
	We spent three days in the Lake St. Clair region. The first day's walk was a nice level meander. On the second day we climbed up to an area called the Labyrinth; this view is from most of the way up. The climb was pretty steep, but Laura left her pack at the hut below and made it to the top with only a reasonable amount of difficulty.		Hi-Res
	A zoom-in of the same valley. We don't know the name of the mountains you see here.	Hi-Res
	This peak, on the other hand, we do know: Mt. Gould.	Hi-Res
	You can see the end of lake St. Clair in the valley below us.	Hi-Res
	Laura in an elfy spot.	Hi-Res
	That scenic rock-bed beside Laura is the track to the Labyrinth -- using a (mostly) dry streambed for a hundred metres or so. The steepness is pretty typical for this section of the climb.	Hi-Res
	The lens flare is authentic, not Photoshop.	Hi-Res
	We had a very pleasant and sociable evening with the other hikers at the Pine Valley Hut. Quite an international bunch: us two Americans, one from Ireland, three from Germany (travelling separately), and three from Australia (a mathematician from Canberra and his two sons).
	"Okay, so this matchbox is you, and this pot-lifter is traffic in the cross street, and this big red thing is the tram..." Explaining the fabled Hook Turn of Melbourne, which at certain intersections requires you to turn right from the far left lane (after waiting for your light to turn red).
	The waning moon over the mountains, from the Lake St. Clair ferry. The water of the lake is so clear and perfect that it (like at Cook's Beach) looks like it came from an animator's computer. Like most if not all fresh water in Australia, there is a tea-colored tint from eucalyptus resins, but surprisingly, this does not alter the water's clarity.	Hi-Res
	We met our heroic Arthurian friends at Farmhouse Creek, 18 days after we left them. (Phoebe had a knee blowout and left the mountains at Moraine K; we met her by happy chance at Hazard's Beach in Freycinet.) We also met the next round of bushwalkers, who were preparing to do another difficult trek from the south coast of Tasmania back to this point. Here is the whole crew, from left to right: Phil (standing), Wendy (seated), Paul, Duanne, Charles, Laura (in front), Anthony, and Grant.
	On board the Spirit of Tasmania, the overnight ferry between Melbourne on the mainland and Devonport on Tasmania. It was not too cold by still-air temperature, but the wind is pretty stiff in Bass Strait.
	We left Devonport around 6:30 in the evening, so we had plenty of time to amuse ourselves on board. We hoped it would be clear enough to see the sun's green flash at sunset, but there were clouds at the horizon.
	Melbourne's central business district, as we approach in the morning. There were a couple of people on jet-skis who zoomed around us and played with the ferry's wake. Welcome home, travellers!